The Ultimate Guide to Pothos Propagation (From Cutting to Pot)

Quick answer: Take a cutting with at least one node (the little bump where roots form), remove the lowest leaf, and root it in clean water or a light soil/perlite mix in bright-indirect light. Change water weekly or keep soil lightly moist—not soggy. Pot up when roots reach 2–3 inches. Want exact light hours, temperature targets, and reminders? Use the VerdeBotany AI Plant Doctor.

What You’ll Need

Healthy pothos vine (golden, jade, marble queen, etc.)
Clean shears or scissors (wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol)
Jar of water or small pot with drainage + airy potting mix
Optional: perlite, sphagnum moss, or LECA for alternative rooting
Labels and dates (helps you track progress)

Find the Node (Non-Negotiable!)

Roots only grow from a node—the knobby spot on the vine where leaves and aerial roots emerge. A single leaf with no node will not root into a plant.

How to Take the Cutting (Step-by-Step)

Choose a vigorous vine with multiple leaves and visible nodes.
Cut just below a node at a 45° angle. Include 1–2 leaves above that node.
Remove the lowest leaf so no foliage sits in water/soil.
Let the cut end air-dry for 10–20 minutes (helps reduce rot risk).

Tip: You can also make several single-node “node/calyx” cuttings; they root quickly and create a fuller pot later.

Rooting Methods (Pick One)

Water (Easiest & Most Visual)

Place node under water; leaves above waterline.
Keep in bright-indirect light; avoid direct sun that heats the jar.
Change water every 5–7 days to stay clear and oxygenated.
Timeline: Bumps in 5–10 days; roots 1–3″ in 2–4 weeks (warmer = faster).

Soil (Faster Transition to a Pot)

Use airy mix: 2 parts potting mix + 1 part perlite (or bark).
Insert node just under the surface; firm gently.
Mist the surface; keep lightly moist, not wet.
Cover with a clear dome or bag (vent daily) if air is very dry.

Other Great Options

Perlite + water bath: Cup of damp perlite nested in a small reservoir for humidity—excellent oxygenation.
Sphagnum moss: Rinse well; keep evenly moist. Rooting is fast and rot-resistant.
LECA: Semi-hydro with nutrient solution once roots form (advanced but tidy).

When to Pot Up

Water-rooted cuttings: wait for several roots of 2–3 inches.
Soil/moss/perlite rooted: pot up once resistance and new growth appear.
Use a small pot (4–6″) with drainage; too big = soggy mix.

Potting steps: Pre-moisten mix; hold the cutting at the right height; backfill gently; water through; drain completely.

Aftercare: Help Cuttings Thrive

Light: Bright-indirect (east window or a few feet from south/west with a sheer).
Water: Keep evenly moist for 2–3 weeks, then shift to a soak-and-dry rhythm.
Humidity: 40–60% is great; avoid cold drafts.
Fertilizer: Wait 4–6 weeks after pot-up; then feed lightly during active growth.

Troubleshooting

Yellowing leaf in water: Normal leaf aging or low light; remove leaf if it decays.
Brown mushy node: Rot—trim to healthy tissue, sterilize shears, retry in fresh water/moss.
No roots after 3–4 weeks: Increase light (not direct sun) and warmth (70–78°F); refresh water more often.
Wilting after pot-up: High humidity dome for 3–5 days; keep soil evenly moist—not wet.

Make a Full, Lush Pot

Plant 3–6 cuttings together in the same pot for instant fullness. Stagger node depth and orient growing tips outward for a balanced shape.

Real-World Example

Case study (2025): A VerdeBotany reader rooted six pothos node cuttings in water on a bright kitchen counter. Our AI tool suggested pot-up at 2.5″ roots into a coco-perlite mix and a 7-day watering cadence. In 8 weeks, the planter was full, trailing, and pushing new growth every node.

Get a Precise Propagation Plan

The VerdeBotany AI Plant Doctor calculates the ideal light hours, humidity, and watering schedule for your cuttings—plus reminders for water changes, pot-up timing, and first fertilizing. No guesswork, just healthy roots.

Get Your Pothos Propagation Plan →

Helpful Internal Links

Pothos Propagation FAQ (2025)

Can a single leaf grow into a new plant?

No. You need a node. A leaf without a node will not produce roots and stems.

Water vs. soil—what’s better?

Water is easiest to monitor; soil speeds transition to a pot. Both work—choose what fits your setup.

How long until I see roots?

Typically 1–2 weeks for nubs; 2–4 weeks for 2–3″ roots in warm, bright-indirect light.

Do I need rooting hormone?

Not necessary for pothos, but it can marginally speed rooting in cooler rooms.

What’s the best season to propagate?

Spring–summer is fastest, but indoor conditions allow year-round propagation if light and warmth are adequate.